Iceland's highlands comprise a vast and uninhabited wilderness traversed by tracks which are normally only suitable for four wheel drive jeeps in the height of the summer. Two major routes cross the centre of Iceland from north to south. The Kjolur route travels between the icecaps of Langjokull and Hofsjokull. Popular stops along the route are the colourful geothermal area of Hveravellir with its many hot springs, outlaw's hideout and a natural bathing pool, and the summer skiing station and colourful mountainous region of Kerlingarfjoll. The Sprengisandur route traverses large tracts of desert and Ice Age moraine as it winds between Hofsjokull and Vatnajokull offering far-reaching views in clear weather.
North of Vatnajokull and accessible only from the north east of Askja. Last erupted in 1961, the volcano's massive caldera has formed the deepest lake in Iceland. To reach the volcano involves a long and rough drive over lava and desert with a worthwhile stop at Herdubreidarlindir, a colourful oasis at the foot of Iceland's most shapely mountain. Beyond Askja lies Kverkfjoll, a huge geothermal field of steam vents, mud pools and hot springs, which lies in part under the icecap. Probably nowhere else in Iceland can the interaction between ice and fire be observed in such a spectacular way, as intricate labyrinths of ice caves form. The site is often viewed from the air on a sightseeing flight from Myvatn and Akureyri.
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