Cruises that take visitors close to the face of tidewater glaciers offer visitors the opportunity of watching them calve icebergs into the sea. Alternatively, for a truly memorable experience, you can strap on crampons and trek on the glacier yourself. Nicola Rickett, our Product Manager for Alaska shares with you her top glacier experiences…
Wrangell St Elias National Park/McCarthy
McCarthy is located in the Wrangell St Elias National Park dominated by looming mountains, forested slopes, and snaking paths of ice that wind their way into cool glacial rivers. This area is so remote (and huge – its 13.2 million acres outsize Switzerland!) that access is usually a short flight by light aircraft from Chitina – and what a way to travel – flying between the mountain peaks tracing the hollow of the valleys below is absolutely exhilarating. These pilots treat flying like driving a taxi - but have you ever taken a black cab that affords you a sweeping turn over the Kennicott glacier?
Once on the ground we were taken along a bumpy little road to McCarthy – a true ghost town if ever I saw one – you could almost hear the saloon doors creaking in the bar (the salmon at the restaurant next door was melt-in-the mouth and the best I’ll EVER taste). Visitors either stay at McCarthy (Ma Johnson’s guesthouse is a real relic of a bygone era) or at the simple but charming Kennicott glacier lodge. Staying at the latter I arrived in darkness, and was dumbfounded at the view out of my window the next morning – the lodge is perched right alongside the glacier – I could see shining shards of ice breaking through the grey moraine littered ontop. And the breakfast was as hearty as they come – mountains of pastries, cake, breads, eggs and bacon. With a hearty start to the day we then set off trekking through a path edged by berry bushes (avoiding the ‘presents’ left by the odd roaming bear), towards the Root glacier. Having worked up a sweat, we strapped on our crampons and with the help of our incredibly friendly guides were soon climbing up a pretty steep slope onto the glacier, like mountain goats!
On top of the glacier the ice was carved into rivers and streams that gave way to tears in the ice. With the guides securing our footing we cautiously peered over ice edges to see a spectrum of blues disappearing into the depths beyond. The dazzling sun reflected off the dimpled surface of the ice, and we threw down some camping mats and ate our packed lunch; it was one of those perfect serene moments when you can hardly believe that you’re witnessing such glorious scenery. It may be off the beaten track – but I defy anyone to visit McCarthy and not be touched by the wild expanses of this special place.
Valdez
If you’re looking for adventure, then head for Valdez – driving the road from Chitina to Valdez you’ll wind through stunning scenery, shadowed on your left by the narrow gorge of the Keystone Canyon (fantastic for whitewater rafters – it’s a manageable standard for beginners). Driving the Richardson Highway southbound into Valdez on your right you’ll come across some beautiful waterfalls tumbling down the rocky cliff-face – one is quite aptly named ‘Bridal Falls’ – it looks just like bride’s veil.
Valdez is also within spitting distance of some amazing glaciers – it is a friendly town with most hotels either next to or within an easy walk of the pier. Take a day’s cruise to the impressive Columbia glacier (one of the largest tidewater glaciers in the state). Small boats offer a personable and informative daytrips amidst the blue hues of icebergs - keep your eyes peeled for orcas and sea otters that pop up around the boat. Meanwhile, if you fancy some moderate exercise then a kayaking trip to the Shoup Glacier is a must. There’s just nothing quite like paddling along the inky blue waters of the Alaskan coastline, manoeuvring around smaller ‘bergy bits’ and the peace and solitude that comes from gently gliding up to an awesome mass of ice spilling down the mountainside.
The blues of the ice were absolutely stunning, and the glacier peaks reminded me of a frozen meringue. OK – so it rained a lot (as is often the case in Valdez I believe), but with our waterproof gear and sturdy kayaks we were like ducks to water. We even saw (and heard) the glacier carve; we paddled along the glacier’s front over to the spot where it had shed its ice – revealing a deep blue scar. Paddling back to the pick-up point for our lift into Valdez we drifted along as the current bore us towards the sea – and spotted a pair of bald eagles on the shoreline – a day full of Alaskan wonder!
Yet another glacier a stone’s throw from Valdez is the Worthington glacier (again, you’ll pass when driving the Richardson Highway south to Valdez). Strap on your crampons, don your harness and pick up that ice axe - this is the place to give iceclimbing or mountaineering a go, and the view from further up the glacier overlooking the vast sweep of landscape is worth the adrenalin rush! I felt like a mountain goat – those crampons really are the business and you can stick to the ice like a fly to sandpaper!
If you fancy experiencing the glaciers of Alaska, why not check out our self-drive itineraries that include the above areas (excursions are supplementary):
|
